Skin Care Treatment
In Skin Care section:
About Skin Care | Purposes of Cleansers and Toners | Types of Skin in Detail |
Obagi Skin Care System | Skin Care Products
About Skin Care
Our skin care department is dedicated to providing you with the latest and most effective skin treatments available.
Before being informed on products, it is important to know about skin.
- Stratum Basale
- Stratum Spinosum
- Stratum Granulosum
- Stratum Corneum
Stratum Corneum Layer
The stratum corneum is the outer or top layer of the epidermis and it is the only visible layer of skin. There can be as many as 10 to 50 layers of flattened cells. It contains a layer of dead skin cells that have little or no hydration. For most people under 35 years of age it takes 28 days for natural exfoliation to occur. After the age of 35 this process can take up to 45 days for the same process to be completed. This is the reason that more mature individuals keep the outer layers of skin longer and it begins to look dull and fatigued. The process of this exfoliation is called desquamation.
Stratum Lucidum Layer
The stratum lucidum are transparent cells and are only found in the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. If the cells from the stratum granulosum are on any other part of the body it will bypass this layer and move up to the stratum corneum.
Stratum Granulosum
The cells in this layer are flat and contain a degenerated nucleus and complex lipids. A glue-like substance called eleidin holds the cells in the granular layer together. Also contained in this layer are the langerhan cells, which work in with the immune system of the skin. The stratum granulosum is the layer responsible for the hard keratin protein in the skin cells.
Stratum Basale
Stratum Basale is the layer of keratinocytes that lies at the base of the epidermis immediately above the dermis. It consists of a single layer of epithelial cells lying on a basement membrane. These cells undergo rapid cell division, mitosis, to replenish the regular loss of skin by shedding from the surface. About 25% of the cells are melanocytes, which produce melanin, which provides pigmentation for skin and hair.
The Dermis:
Directly underneath the epidermis is the dermis, also known as the “true skin” because it is where the vascular activity, nourishment and blood supply to the skin occurs. This is the innermost layer of the skin, which separates the epidermis from the subcutaneous layers. It is the thickest part of the skin (about 4 millimeters) and is highly resilient and tough. The dermis contains nerves, blood vessels, lymph vessels, collagen & elastin fibers, sebaceous and sweat glands, and hair follicles. The dermis feeds the epidermis through osmosis.
Pores:
The public generally refers to all openings of the face as pores, but more precisely, only the sweat glands are pores. The “pores” we see are, in fact, due to not deep cleansing our skin. Dirt and makeup and oil build up and harden in our hair shafts, making them appear larger and more prominent. A good cleanser and microdermabrasion and/or a chemical peel is a MUST for large pores.
Acne:
- 90% of 17 year olds are affected
- Acne flares up from time to time in 9% of men and 7% of women in their 30’s
Many times breakouts occur due to dirty hands, incorrect use of product, or allergic reactions to product. As a condition, acne is treatable by non-medical personnel. An acne disorder needs medical attention. Glycolic based and Benzoyl Peroxide based products have proven extremely effective in treating acne and scarring. Breakouts are normal for the first 2 – 3 weeks after using a new product. Most times, people are just using the wrong cleanser. Pores become clogged (as stated above), by using a cheap, or wrong type of cleanser / product on their skin. One of the first questions to ask is what are they using on their face currently? If they state “soap” this would explain it – they need to switch immediately. A good toner might also be recommended.
Purposes of Cleansers and Toners
Cleanser
Clean Skin by removing dirt and excess oil
Soap
- Alkaline pH strips skin on acid mantle
- Exposes skin to bacterial invasion
- Drying to skin thus stimulates increase of sebaceous gland activity
Toner
Bring skin’s pH back to its natural state
Purposes of Moisturizers:
Hold water to skin and/or replace diminished oil (sebum)
Purpose of Exfoliants:
Please note that when using an exfoliating scrub or brush, not to use on the face or use gently. A soft facial brush or a simple washcloth is all that is recommended due to the delicate nature of our faces. Scrubbing the outer layers of stratum corneum (top most layer of epidermis) helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and improves the overall skin appearance.
Mechanical vs. Chemical exfoliation methods: Chemical – Glycolic peels, AHAs, Enzymes, other acid peels. Mechanical – Scrubs, crystal microdermabrasion
Purpose of Masks:
- Deeply cleanse, tighten and/or rehydrate skin
Purpose of Serums:
- High concentration of “active” ingredients
- Targeted to improve skin concerns
Drug Store vs. Professional Skin Care:
- High content of preservatives and fragrances
- Can be very alkaline and irritating to skin
- Low “active” ingredient concentration
- Drug store product pricing is often equivalent or more than professional lines
- Higher water content (vs. ingredient content)
- May use lower grade ingredients
Pollution / Smoking / Health:
The skin is supported by the blood that is provided by the blood vessels in the dermis. This blood delivers food and oxygen to the skin cells for nourishment. If a person is in poor health, this will reflect negatively on that person’s skin. The oxygen content in the blood is paramount to the upkeep of these skin cells. If said individual is a smoker or lives in an area where free radicals of the environment are prevalent, the skin will appear dry and lackluster.
Body Contour Cream:
Found below the dermis, the subcutaneous layer is comprised primarily of fat cells called adipose tissue which connects the dermis to muscle tissue. This represents 20% of the total body weight of a human. The objective of these cells is to act as a cushion, which supplies insulation for the body. It also gives smoothness and contour to the body and contains fat for use as energy. Within the subcutaneous layer, blood and lymph supply nourishment to the skin by circulating through the skin, contributing essential materials for growth, nourishment and repair of the skin. In unhealthy tissue, however, this is not the case. Instead, constricted capillary networks disrupt and slow the circulation of both blood and lymph flow. The results include structural changes leading to fat growth, the appearance of dull, drab, ashen skin tones, and cellulite proliferation in certain areas of the body.
Wrinkles:
Wrinkle Formation – The medical field believes that the formation of wrinkles is due to the loss of strength in the collagen / elastin network that is located in the dermis. This breakdown can be caused by the natural aging process or by the depletion of moisture in the dermis caused by photo-damage by the sun. Whatever the reason, the client has come to you for answers to this dilemma.
Fine Wrinkles – The finer lines on the face are due to the chronological aging mechanism, and the narrowing of the epidermis and upper dermis regions. This tissue type of skin will fold readily and form a fine basket weave design on the skin. This phenomenon appears initially around the eyes and perioral areas.
Muscle-Associated Wrinkles – Muscle actions in certain areas of the face cause this category of wrinkle. It is commonly seen on the glabella area, the forehead, and the nasolabial folds. They appear like depressions or dents in the skin.
Accordion Pleat Wrinkles – Accordion pleat wrinkles are a series of uniform lines known more commonly as laugh lines. This condition is due to the loss of elasticity, and a relaxing of the skin by a malfunction in the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous layers of the skin.
Skin Type Classification (Fitzpatrick)
Skin Type I
Very white or freckled skin color – Always burns
Skin Type II
White skin color – Usually burns
Skin Type III
White to olive skin color – Sometimes burns
Skin Type IV
Brown skin color – Rarely burns
Skin Type V
Dark brown skin color – Very rarely burns
Skin Type VI
Black skin color – Never burns
Types of Skin in Detail
Normal Skin
Appears to be functioning normally and is neither too dry nor oily. It is usually free of blemishes that require extensive treatment. Normal skin will benefit from maintenance treatments that help to keep it healthy and attractive. The main objectives are to cleanse the skin of dead cells and remove impurities from the follicles. Skin metabolism can be improved by stimulation through massage and the client should be put on an at home skin care plan. Regular care will assure that normal skin continues to function in a normal way.
Dry Skin
Is the result of under-active sebaceous glands that produce oils, which lubricates the skin. Skin appears tight, dull in color, and often shows visible lines and wrinkles. It may also become dry due to overexposure to sun, wind, harsh soaps, poor diet, lack of fluid intake, medication, environmental factors, and aging. As a person advances in years, the body’s renewal process slows down and cells are not replaced as quickly as before. Massage can be very effective in stimulating skin metabolism.
Combination Skin
Is the most common skin type. It is characterized by two or more different conditions. For example, the T-Zone, which consists of the forehead, nose and chin, is oily, but the rest of the face is normal or even dry. The conditions must be treated separately or with products specially formulated for combination skin.
Oily Skin
Caused by over active sebaceous glands and is thicker in texture. The skin has enlarged pores that may be filled with oil and debris. Comedones and whiteheads are present. The skin is sallow in appearance and is more prone to pimples and blemishes because of its over-lubrication with excessive oil, but is less prone to wrinkles and fine lines because of it. The oil also helps to keep moisture in the skin from evaporating.
Blemish
Has many of the same characteristics as oily skin. Is especially common in adolescents. The first signs of blemishes are usually seen during puberty when there is an increase in the hormone androgen, which stimulates the amount of oil produced by the sebaceous glands. Blackheads, whiteheads, pimples, and pustules are present and easily infected with bacteria.
Rosacea
Characterized by excessive oiliness of the skin. The nose and cheeks are most frequently affected. The face will have a flushed appearance, and if neglected, the skin can become lumpy due to the formation of pustules and papules. It is often referred to as Acne Rosacea, but should not be confused with blemishes. Rosacea does not usually appear before the age of 35. It can be aggravated by the consumption of alcohol and spicy foods. Gentle, soothing treatments are most beneficial.
Aging
Characterized by a loss of elasticity and firmness. As skin biologically ages, it can change and regularly scheduled skin evaluations are necessary in order to make the appropriate product and treatment adjustments.
Photo-Aging
Caused by exposure to the sun. Skin is dehydrated and has a coarse texture.
Sensitive Skin
Readily reacts to a variety of factors such as specific chemicals, airborne debris and/or certain skin care ingredients. Sensitive skin often appears blotchy, broken-out or excessively dry.
Four Steps to Setting up a Skin Care Management System
First, you should be given factual information on the nature of your complaint or concern. You then need to understand the realities of what you are trying to resolve and what you can realistically accomplish. Answering the below questions will greatly help us in determining your new skin care line to get the best out of your surgery, treatment, or just your new day-to-day skin care regime.
- What are your skin care goals?
- If you could change something about your skin, what would it be?
- What product are you currently using?
- What are you using in the morning? At night?
- How much time do you spend or want to spend?
- If they use a bar of soap only, note that a skin care system of about 2 or 3 products may be all they feel they can handle at first or maybe ever.
- Do you use sunscreen on a daily basis?
Skin Care – specific questions
- List any glycolic and/or Retin A products you are currently using or have used in the last 3-6 months. Glycolic products are acids, so do not use too many acidic products.
- Have you had any professional chemical peels and/or microdermabrasion in the last 1-3 months? If a chemical peel has been performed in the last 3 months, do not use any strong acidic products on the skin.
- Have you used Accutane in the last 12 months? This is a strong medication taken for acne. It causes the outer layers to shed off the skin constantly. DO NOT do perform exfoliation on patients taking Accutane.
- Daily / Habitual Routines to Know and Ask.
- Do you smoke? How much?
- How often do you sunbathe?
- Do you consume a large amount of dairy products? Believe it or not, acne can be made worse and flare up by consuming too much dairy.
Obagi Skin Care System
Obagi Nu-Derm® System
For patients who are looking for solutions to correct the unwanted signs of aging caused by external factors and the natural breakdown in skin function. These include:
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Sun and age spots
- Uneven skin tone
- Loss of elasticity and firmness
- Loss of natural skin hydration
You have the ability to transform your skin with the Obagi Nu-Derm System, proven to improve skin functions so that skin looks and acts younger and healthier.
The Obagi Nu-Derm System uses a unique combination of active and prescription ingredients - including Tretinoin and Hydroquinone 4% - to maximize penetration to all skin layers. The specific dosage and frequency are determined and monitored by you, according to your patient's skin condition, needs and lifestyle.
- Increases cellular turnover of abundant, healthy keratinocytes, pushing fresh cells to the surface more quickly and promoting old cells to exfoliate faster
- Suppresses melanocyte production reversing and preventing hyperpigmentation
- Promotes the even distribution of melanin, eliminating unwanted dark patches and age spots
- Improves intracellular transcription of keratinocytes, producing healthy, uniform cells for better skin structure
- Stimulates fibroblasts to increase collagen and elastin formation, resulting in stronger, more resilient skin
- Increases GAG synthesis, providing natural hydration and necessary nutrients to the epidermis
- Increases angiogenesis, improving blood flow
Obagi-C® Rx
The early intervention system that addresses early signs of skin damage.
- Corrects hyperpigmentation by regulating the production of melanin-producing cells
- Accelerates skin turnover through gentle exfoliation to restore balance and radiance to lackluster skin
- Minimizes future skin cell damage by neutralizing free radicals and protecting the skin from UVA and UVB rays
The comprehensive Obagi-C Rx System is a prescription-strength, physician dispensed regimen that provides the necessary elements to ensure young-looking skin stays that way. Obagi-C® Rx System patient is ideal for those who:
- Have young skin
- Minimal fine lines
- Minimal unevenness of skin tone
- Mild hyperpigmentation
- Exhibit emerging signs of photodamage
- Are not ready for or are intolerant to retinoid therapy
Obagi Blue Peel System:
Begin your remarkable skin transformation in less than an hour with the Obagi Blue Peel. Based on your particular skin needs, your health professional will determine the strength and depth of Tricloracetic Acid (TCA) peels and number of coats applied. A blue mixing base with built-in safeguards helps ensure consistent results. Your health care professional controls the procedure. You enjoy the results.
Only the Obagi Blue Peel features built-in controls to promote superior outcomes, including:
- Simple coat system, even application and fixed concentrations of TCA to reduce variables such as overpainting.
- Non-ionic blue base with glycerin that acts as a color guide and slows TCA penetration for a more even, uniform distribution.
- Easy-to-recognize endpoints that signal desired depth, determining outcome.
The Obagi Blue Peel System is best for patients who want a fast procedure with dramatic results. The Obagi Blue Peel is a quick and simple procedure for you to administer that does not typically require sedation. Application typically to the face and neck takes about 20 minutes, depending on the number of coats applied. Your patients can expect a burning sensation that lasts only a few minutes and a bluish tint to their skin that usually washes off in 12 to 24 hours. The Obagi Blue Peel is effective for:
- Many skin conditions, including laxity, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, large pores, comedones and more.
- For all skin colors and thicknesses.
- For use on the neck, chest, hands and arms.
- For patients who want a strong solution, that's fast and permanent.
Following the procedure, patients will experience light swelling. Within two to three days, their skin will begin to peel. This peeling continues over the next several days. By the seventh to tenth day, their skin should be healed and start looking younger and healthier.
Once their skin has completely recovered and is finished peeling, your patients will notice a visible improvement in their complexion. Their skin's appearance will continue to improve for the next four to six weeks, becoming firmer, clearer, smoother, healthier and more youthful looking.
For best results, patients should use the Obagi Nu-Derm System 6 to 12 weeks before the procedure and then continue back on the Obagi Nu-Derm System once skin is healed after the procedure.
Obagi CLENZIderm M.D.™ Systems
Introducing the only prescription-strength, physician dispensed acne systems with a patent-pending 5% liquified benzoyl peroxide. CLENZIderm M.D.™ Systems are clinically proven to better penetrate the follicles.
Most benzoyl peroxides are formulated with insoluble crystals that, when applied, remain largely on the surface of the skin because they are too big to penetrate the follicle. CLENZIderm M.D.™ Systems utilize patent-pending SoluZyl™ Technology in which benzoyl peroxide is in a liquified form. As a result, CLENZIderm M.D.™ delivers more benzoyl peroxide deep into the follicle for better results! CLENZIderm M.D. now offers the exclusive SoluZyl technology in two systems - one for Normal to Oily Skin (Serum Gel) and one for Normal to Dry Skin (Therapeutic Lotion).
Jan Marini
Jan Marini is more than one of the most respected names in skin care. Jan's passionate commitment to healthy skin, as an educator, innovator and product researcher, prompted one journalist to dub her "The Derma Diva."
Jan pioneered medically-validated skin care preparations and has formed associations with some of the world's leading physicians and research scientists. Today her products are used worldwide to treat common skin conditions such aging and sun-damaged skin, acne, and rosacea, and as complementary adjuncts to many popular medical procedures.
Jan's research led to technology breakthroughs that were years ahead of the commercial marketplace. Well before the technology was available to the mass market, Jan Marini pioneered the use of Glycolic Acid to improve the skin's appearance and texture. She was also the first to market a stable topical Vitamin C technology to promote healthier skin. Skin care professionals and consumers alike trust Jan Marini to deliver remarkable products for amazing skin, hair, eyelashes, and lips.
Skin Care Products
The Bioglycolic Line
Glycolic acid is what is known as an "alpha hydroxy acid," or "AHA." Alpha hydroxy acids are a family of acids that occur naturally in various fruits and foods, and are often collectively referred to as fruit acids. Glycolic acid found in sugar cane has received the most attention medically because it has the smallest molecule of all the AHAs. This small molecular weight enables glycolic acid to penetrate more effectively and to ultimately bring about the most dramatic and beneficial changes of all the AHAs.
This non-invasive lifting of the cells in the stratum corneum enables glycolic acid to act as a phenomenal resurfacing agent that can immensely improve the appearance of the skin.
As physicians and researchers gain a greater interest in glycolic acid, medical studies have revealed that glycolic acid may stimulate collagen, increase epidermal volume, and even act as a powerful antioxidant and free radical inhibitor.
The Bioglycolic Line combines proven glycolic acid standards with technological advancements. Jan Marini Skin Research created Bioglycolic products to provide the ultimate resurfacing agents along with additional scientifically calculated components that equate to unparalleled skin care management.
The C-Esta Line
Medical research has established that vitamin C plays an essential role in every aspect of the skin's functioning, including protection from UV damage and repair of cumulative sun-induced aging factors. It has also been proven that for vitamin C to be present in the skin in medically efficacious levels, it must be transported into cells through topical application.
C-ESTA is a complex technology that involves stabilization, optimum skin absorption, adequate activity levels. The C-ESTA Fact Sheet presents an overview about C-ESTA methods of action, its effectiveness as compared to other forms of vitamin C, and its specific benefits. The Fact Sheet focuses on C-ESTA's two distinct modes of action: Ascorbyl Palmitate and DAE Complex.
The Age Intervention Line
Age Intervention is a breakthrough in anti-aging technology for adult women. Age Intervention Face addresses the appearance of aging skin changes by targeting two critical areas: hormonal levels and changes associated with cumulative sun exposure.
As females age and hormonal levels drop, the sebaceous glands begin to atrophy, contributing to drier skin. In addition, the decline of estrogen results in reduced moisture content, exacerbating the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. Numerous other hormonally-related changes include thinning of the dermis, thinner and sparser elastin fibers, changes in collagen production and changes in pigment cells. The second and most challenging aspect of the aging skin process is cumulative sun exposure.
Jan Marini Skin Research has joined together an extraordinary combination of topical agents that can effectively boost the skin's ability to repair damage. Your skin will look naturally younger, hydrated and radiant.
The Transformation Line
Jan Marini Skin Research Transformation Line combines state of the art breakthrough technologies to introduce a new era in skin rejuvenation and hydration. Transformation focuses on TGF Beta-1 (Transformation Growth Factor), Thymosin Beta-4, Pentapeptides, and VGF (Vascular Epithelial Growth Factor) to bring anti-aging technology into the next generation of breakthroughs.
TGF Beta-1 is a form of cytokine technology that is believed to act as a cellular mediator by signaling certain cellular activities that are necessary for maintaining the appearance of youthful, healthy skin. In media interviews, one distinguished medical researcher has referred to TGF Beta-1 as being essential for the normal production of collagen and elastin. The researcher also believes that TGF Beta-1 may be the answer to keeping skin young indefinitely.
Thymosin Beta-4 is a string of 43 amino acid peptides that assist in regulating immune cells and is also a powerful anti-inflammatory and wound healing agent. The cosmetic use of Thymosin Beta-4 in an anti-aging topical treatment is a patented technology exclusive to Jan Marini Skin Research.
Pentapeptides are tiny strings of amino acids (proteins) that can communicate with cells in specific ways by directly improving or correcting instructions that the cell needs in order to function properly.
Vascular Growth Factor is a polypeptide that assists in stimulating new blood vessel formation by helping to regulate angiogenesis.
Factor A Plus Line
Factor-A and Factor-A Plus are cutting-edge technologies that fall into the category known as Retinoids. Retinoids are a group of naturally occurring and synthetic compounds that have Vitamin A-like biological activity. They play a critical role in skin growth, repair and epithelial cell differentiation. Over the past 20 years, tremendous research has focused on certain Retinoids, particularly retinoic acid, for the purpose of treating various skin abnormalities including acne and skin changes due to photodamage and aging.
Summary of Benefits
- Retinoids protect against the appearance of ultraviolet radiation-induced aging skin changes
- Assists in decreasing or resolving the appearance of abnormal pigmentation (hyperpigmentation)
- Dramatic skin rejuvenation benefits in the visible signs of aging
- Noticeable reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Skin appears smoother and more luminous
- Potent and effective tool for clearing and maintaining "problem skin"
Medical research has proven that some Retinoids such as Retinol can reduce or reverse many of the visible signs of skin aging especially fine wrinkling and textural changes. New collagen deposition, greater proliferation of new blood vessels and capillary formation has been documented. Dramatic improvement can be observed with regard to skin smoothness, evening of skin tones and overall skin rejuvenation. Retinol also plays a prominent role in conditioning the skin prior to many cosmetic procedures such as facial surgery, CO2 laser resurfacing and chemical peels.
Retinol has proven to be a potent tool in treating acne by preventing the cells that line the follicular canal from sticking together and creating the solid impactions that block the follicle. This comedolytic action is unequalled in addressing the underlying mechanisms that contribute to acne.
Additionally when this new Retinol technology is formulated in combination with glycolic acid there is synergistic resurfacing enhancement.
Just For Teens (and Adults with Acne)
Benzoyl peroxide is a potent and effective therapy for treating acne. Benzoyl peroxide is currently recognized by the American Academy of Dermatology as one of the most effective antibacterial agents proven to significantly reduce the presence of P acne bacteria (the bacteria believed to play a primary role in the inflammatory aspect of the acne process).
P acne bacteria thrives in an oxygen-free environment and feeds on trapped oil in the sebaceous follicle. It then releases a toxic, corrosive fatty acid by-product that works to break down the follicle walls and encourage the leaks and ruptures that produce acne lesions. By reducing the P acne bacteria colonies, the inflammatory process is minimized and clearing of acne lesions is greatly enhanced.